wice a year, the glitterati descends on the four fashion capitals for a month-long style and soiree celebration.
New York kicks off fashion month before it crosses the Atlantic to London where the jam-packed schedule is known for spotlighting emerging designers as one of the most creative weeks in the calendar. The five days of fashion happenings set behemoths like Burberry and JW Anderson alongside incubator Fashion East who offer the exciting new crop of graduates a platform to showcase their talent.
While press, buyers and influential fashion folks pick out the clothing, jewellery and accessory trends to shop for spring/summer 2024, the runway provides inspiration far beyond the pieces that will fill our wardrobes next year. Artistic expression is reflected from the fashion to the hair and makeup where the artists get experimental, riffing off the themes of the collections or picking out common motifs to enhance the overall aesthetic. Best of all, you needn’t sit on this haul of inspiration; you can emulate the beauty looks right now.
This year, natural beauty has solidified its endurance where bold theatrical makeup has been eschewed in favour of glowing, healthy skin. The same goes for hair; it’s all glossy, sleek styles and natural texture claiming the catwalk. That is not to say colour has been completely lacking. It popped up in floor-length wigs at Ashley Williams and as dark eyeshadow, contradicting the stereotypical fresh-faced complexion that we come to expect with the summer season.
MAC and Bobbi Brown are brands regularly spotted backstage, while Sam McKnight and Briogeo can be thanked for finessing sleek hairstyles. Any makeup artist worth their salt knows that preparation is key to a flawless face and so a nourishing and glowy skincare routine is crucial for the stressed-out skin of the models who run from show to show and require some much-deserved pampering for runway-ready complexions. Look also to the nails to inspire your next trip to the salon.
Shop the makeup, hair, skincare and nail polishes to recreate the catwalk looks below.
For the sun-soaked Emilia Wickstead collection that took inspiration from the French Riviera in the 1920s and 30s, makeup artist Petro Petrohilos wanted to mimic that fresh-from-the-beach healthy glow. The luminous skin was paired with metallic eyes and a sheer nude lip to highlight the individuality of each model and the “carefree, artsy beach culture from the South of France”.
To prep “Bio Lifting Oil Free Fluid+ was an important step to keep skin well hydrated. Spritzing Pure Rosewater at the end sealed in the moisture to achieve a glowing complexion”, Petrohilos revealed.
For the makeup, “I mixed Sheer Glow Rose Face Tint with Future Skin for the dewy fresh look on the girls”, he says. “An important tip for recreating the look is to apply the cheek colour after the highlighter and use your fingertips to create a more effortless result.” He then layered the HD Perfecting Powder and Perfect Blur Finishing Powder during the final line-up “to control the shine in these areas before the girls hit the runway.”
For the eyes, Petrohilos called on the Luminescent Eye Shade in Cheetah, a warm champagne hue and Giraffe but this was layered over a spritz of the Pure Rosewater “to deliver the look of a melted metallic shadow on the eyelid.”
“The new Spring Summer collection was inspired by the female impressionist artist Berthe Morisot who captured an unidealized womanhood in the most beautiful way, and a lightness which we wanted to capture through within the collection” explains designer Euden Choi on his SS24 show. To go alongside this aesthetic, he called on the Korean beauty label LANEIGE to create hydrated, supple skin with subtle pops of colour.
Head makeup artist, Adam de Cruz used the LANEIGE Water Bank Hyaluronic Exfoliating Toner to give the skin intense moisture. “You can see the skin’s hydration visibly change as you swipe it with a saturated cotton pad. I let it sink in before swiping more on the high points of the face, giving it a glowing effect”. This was applied alongside the Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer, Lip Sleeping Mask, Radian-C Brightening Treatment Essence and Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Eye Cream.
Harris Reed kicked off London Fashion Week with a show spotlighting sculptural silhouettes made up of corset bustiers and champagne-coloured microbeads. Charlotte Tilbury mimicked this architectural element with a dark, dramatic liner.
“For this season, we looked at 90s cult glamour, reimagining it with that iconic Charlotte Tilbury glow”, says head makeup artist Sofia Tilbury. “We wanted to keep that cool-girl, slightly grungy eye look that defined the decade, but combine it with modern, fresh, and dewy skin”. Harris agreed adding, “We drew inspiration for the bold eye from old couture shows but with a modern and reimagined twist through the eyeliner & black shadowing”.
The Magic Water Cream flooded the models’ skin with hydration for a fresh, dewy finish, while the Airbrush Flawless Foundation gave a matte effect that reflected the demi-matte textures spotted in the collection.
Definition on the face was created with the Hollywood Contour Wand and Beautiful Skin Sun-Kissed Glow Bronzer, employed to chisel out the cheekbones. But the real star of the show was the sweeping eyeliner created with The Classic liner in Black and emphasised with the Luxury Palette in The Sophisticate. The finishing touch was the Lip Cheat liner adorning the natural lip line, while the centre was kept bare for a soft look that lets the eyes do the talking.
“For SS24, I envisioned the models’ complexions illuminated with a dewy glass-like sheen”, explains Erdem Moralıoğlu on his partnership with 111SKIN. “I love the idea that the skin looked as though you had been caught in the rain with a beautiful natural glow”.
The science-backed skincare label understood the assignment for natural, hydrated skin by priming the makeup looks with its instantly-recognisable masks beloved by everyone from Victoria Beckham to Lady Gaga. The Celestial Black Diamond Lifting and Firming Mask, Cryo De-Puffing Eye Masks, and Rose Gold Brightening Treatment Mask were all used.
The process began with the Vitamin C Brightening Cleanser to create a clean, plumped base and was followed by the Black Diamond Brightening Essence, Black Diamond Eye Cream, Black Diamond Serum, and Celestial Black Diamond Contour Gel that are made up of fine diamond particles for sculpting and firming.
The Vitamin C Brightening Booster and Rose Gold Radiance Booster gave a glowy finish, while the Black Diamond Emulsion, provided moisture while sitting beautifully under makeup.
“I wanted it to be angelic and ethereal” Richard Quinn told Vogue about his collection dedicated to his late father that saw beautiful microscopic flowers and delicate lace frocks come down the runway.
Gone were the latex masks; instead an emphasis on natural beauty. As such Terry Barber, Global Creative Director of Artistry M.A.C COSMETICS, explains, “The makeup for Richard Quinn is based upon the old, romantic, slightly Victorian portrait. Quite sombre, quite strict. It’s feeling almost a bit more cinematic, rather than looking like a designed makeup”.
Barber set the groundwork for the base with the Hyper Real Skin Canvas Balm for a soothed, supple look before applying the lightweight, skincare hybrid Studio Radiance Serum Powered Foundation and Strobe Dewy Skin Tint for a sheer complexion. The eye makeup was kept simple with just the Clear History shade in the Connect In Colour Eye Shadow Palette – Encrypted Kryptonite and the Dazzleshadow Extreme in Kiss of Klimt.
Sam McKnight used his eponymous collection to create the “Alien Victoriana-inspired braided chignons”. The sleek and high-shine hair looks were created with Dressed to Kill to tame and polish and Modern Hairspray for shine and to counteract flyaways. The Self-Control Gel set the styles in place.
Springtime florals were common motifs throughout David Koma’s SS24 collection and the makeup look was designed to reflect this. The designer explains, “As this collection is a celebration of flowers, I wanted to achieve a fresh make-up look, enhancing each model’s natural beauty”. Charlotte Tilbury’s niece Sofia set the agenda for “glowing, healthy-looking skin and enhancing natural beauty”.
To prep the model’s skin, Tilbury called on its new Magic Water Cream to provide intense hydration, calm redness and brighten the skin.
The Hollywood Flawless Filter Foundation smoothed the complexion to give a filter-like finish and provided illumination for a fresh, radiant look that worked in line with the blooming collection. This was enhanced by the subtle wash of colour from The Super Nudes lipstick in Runway Royalty or K.I.S.S.I.N.G lipstick in Nude Romance. The Brow Fix and Legendary Brows were used to create the fluffy, brushed-up brows.
16Arlington is likely best known for its collection of feathered and sequin-embellished party dresses and for SS24, Marco Capaldo is elevating that further with innovative fabrics and vibrant hues. The shimmering silhouettes were given sleek hair looks to match by the iconic hairstylist Sam McKnight and his eponymous haircare collection. He explains that for “The 16Arlington Cool Girl, individual beauty is enhanced with shiny, voluminous, and healthy texture”.
After a shampoo and conditioning using the Cool Girl Cleanse and Cool Girl Nourish, the styling took a personal approach to each model’s individual hair texture. To defrizz and depuff, the Save the Do was misted into the locks before blow drying or if leaving to dry naturally, Happy Endings created definition. Fine and flat hair was treated to Cool Girl Volume Foam and left to air dry, while curly hair across the spectrum was tamed with Dressed to Kill or Happy Endings.
Emerging talent incubator Fashion East showcased three fashion designers with makeup looks worth your attention.
During the show for The Row and Yeezy alum ASAI, the brief was ‘emo caught in the rain’ so as you can expect Terry Barber, Global Creative Director of Artistry M.A.C COSMETICS created a look that wouldn’t look out of place at 4am after a rave – just far more chic. He explains, “The combination of Studio Radiance Serum Powered Foundation and Strobe Dewy Skin Tint gives an amazing post-rave, dance floor, almost sweaty, radiant skin. The foundation picks up the light in all the right places and never looks oily, it’s quite magical. A bit grunge and a bit hippie. Distressed come down ravers.”
‘Chic but tough’ is what we saw heading down the runway at Estonian-born, London-based CSM grad Johanna Parv. The functional elegance that defines her brand was reflected in the highly familiar makeup that gave an ‘on-the-go’ feel with the Studio Radiance Serum Powered Foundation, Strobe Dewy Skin Tint and Essential Oils.
Standing Ground takes its design cues from the natural world, organic shapes and the body with draping, sculpting and craft techniques harnessed to celebrate the individual. “I have futuristic ideas about an imagined future or an imagined ancient past and how they aesthetically crossover”, explains designer Michael Stewart.
In honour of this Barber took a totally different approach to the conventions of summery makeup with a matte, one-colour look where the lips, eyes and brows were a monochrome “bloodless” hue. This was created with the Hyper Real Serum, Studio Fix 24 Hour Smooth Wear Concealer, Studio Fix Fluid SPF15 Foundation and the Studio Fix Pro Set + Blur Weightless Loose Powder in Translucent.
Shown in Collins Music Hall in Angel, Ashley Williams presented a collection inspired by pre and post-civilisation where you are encouraged to spot the remnants of consumerism referencing the medieval. As such, baby jumpers became headwear- featuring jester’s motifs, masks were adorned as facial recognition blockers to shield our personal data (inspired by the 16th century) and clothes were crafted from fungus.
For some models, their hair was left untouched to show their natural beauty, while others were treated to bold wigs in pops of pink or dark brown. “For this collection, I have really played on the medieval theme, creating some 60-inch custom wigs that reference the hair of that era, but with a futuristic colour twist”, detailed Alex Brownsell, founder and creative director of BLEACH LONDON. “For the classic Ashley Williams street-cast models, we have enhanced their personal aesthetics, highlighting characterful mullets, fringes, and natural textures”.
To create the soft, pastel pink, the BLEACH LONDON Rose Super Cool Colour was used. For the dark brown, the coffee, warm copper hue is the care of the Bleach London Super Cool Instant Coffee, while for the creamy twist on blonde, it was the Champagne Super Toner Kit on hand.
Molly Goddard’s collections explore a contemporary approach to Regency styles with tulle and ruffle as the brand’s signatures.
The nails followed suit with the hair and makeup at Molly Goddard. To go alongside the black eyeshadow, the Kure Bazaar Clean Primer & Matte Effect was layered over black polish to create a matte finish. While mimicking the dewy skin, you can see the signature Kure gloss finish. Both were created using the Khol colour.